The Vic

[John]

Damn Alan, that's looking clean as hell! Love it!

[Alan]

Thanks for that John, but i've had to cut a few corners here and there even still. She definatley won't look like a factory motor in there, but you have to make sacrafices when doing swaps no doudt. I learned a few things doing the Mustang i'm carrying over and modifying on this build. I sure hope it runs as good as it looks tho! lol.

Crossover installed:



Getting closer:



'Effin TIGHT. Need to wrap the DP yet and re bend those brake lines to clear everything:






Didn't get quite as far as I had wanted still, but made a lot of progress. I need to get the front clip off soon and see what size of Intercooler I can get up in there, then get all the cold side stuff planned out and ordered.

[Alan]

Not a whole lot of progress, but got the throttle body modified and installed:



Much to my amazement, both the stock throttle and cruise control cables work perfectly, all I have to do is build a bracket for them to mount to the intake:



The factory Ford cruise control system will be used as well. It's a really crude system that only need a VSS input which the LS computer will supply.

We're installing J's 80E this weekend, so no more progress till next weekend most likely. I'm slowly working towards getting the front clip removed and getting that cold side ordered. It's starting to come down to the smaller items finally, I don't see it taking too long till 1st fire after the cold side is done.

Especially when you get a Fortune Cookie with a message like this:

[Alan]

Making more progress. It's been a little slow lately due to me helping out on J's 80E install, and other things that have cropped up, but i'm still pushing on as much as I can every weekend.

The intercooler is set, all I need to do is make lower brackets for it to the Radiator support:





Fitment was easy, plenty of room behind that bumper cover. It's a 31x12x4" unit:



With the internal fins that are suppsoed to be more effecient:



So hopefully tomorrow i'll finally get the Cold side layed out on paper and get the piping and connectors ordered.

the progress is slow, but i'm not exactly installing a Chevy to Chevy here, as well as making everything functional and look 1/2 decent.

[Alan]

Some more parts to the pile:




A little trimming needed here:




The IC outlet is similar, didn't have time to lay it out though. Need to cut those 90 degrees and get them fitted, then make a few support brackets for it all and mount it up.

Got to finish the trans in my dad's ranger this weekend and install it tho. IF i'm lucky next weekend is looking open for the time being, so I can get another 2 day in on it and make some good progress.

[Alan]

Woot! Cold side pretty much done. Need to make a few more support brackets, but for the most part she's got some piped intercooled air.

If I get the full two days next weekend to work on it, I should be able to finish the downpipe/wastegate, reinstall the master cylinder and stuff for good. Then it's down to some wiring and we'll be getting closer to firing in the next month or so.

[John]

Aren't you gonna run a speed density tune, or is that a gutted MAF and you're just using it for IAT?

[Alan]

No it's a stock pickup MAF John. I'm going to go with the MAF on this tune. The main reason is driveability/fuel economy and altitude adjustability.

Idk about EFI live, but with HPT the 3 bar upgrade OS locks the barometic pressure reading to a fixed value. So, anytime the barometric pressure changes, the AFR changes. It's gay. The Mustang was this way as well. I had tuned it in Jan/Feb, and when it got warm around March/April, the tune was starting to lean out. The week after it cooled back down and everything went back to normal.

I checked a few logs from J's pickup that we made 2 years ago, and his BARO reading was identical. Did some research, and turns out most custom boost OS's are this way. And for good reason. If we had access to all the altitude/baro correction tables in the tune, it would be massive.

Leaving the MAF in place, and simply tuning on the last row of the VE table and MAF table will work fine with boost, but you have to have seperate tunes for different boost levels. AND for safety sake, you need some sort of boost limiting cutout, which the TurboSmart Eboost2 i'm using does. So if the WG creeps or has issues and the controller can't keep it down, it will cut power to the injectors at the predetermined boost level.

Also, keeping the MAF functional keeps the computer from going into limp mode which has other side effects. With me using a crossover pipe and log system, I don't think I can use the driver side O2 sensor for closed loop fuel control because of the RH bank mixing with it. I'm failry certain it's going to cause a fuel trim issue. The GEN III ecu's have the ability to fuel both banks off of 1 sensor alone, BUT it will only do it if the system is in closed loop, MAF enabled. If you have the MAF removed or disabled it won't fuel off of just 1 sensor and stays in open loop. So, keeping the MAF allows me to keep the RH O2 sensor installed and in closed loop fuel control, and allows the computer to operate 100% normally.

The drawbacks tho can be disasterous. If the boost creeps up at all the AFR will continue to lean out once the MAF is pegged, which happens around 550ish flywheel HP give or take by my experiences. This is fine tho as long as you have some sort of boost cut.

This way the car will maintain stock fuel control, with on-the-fly altitude corrections. Stock 4.8 on PT.net was into the 9's with this setup, so it can make HP you just gotta be careful doing it. My pillar gauges will consist of WB AFR, Fuel Pressure and boost.

And if I decide it's not going to work out like I want it, I can always delete it and go SD 3bar. I figured i'd give it a try after experimenting with the existing vehicles we have.

[John]

Aug 27, 2012 21:08:11 GMT -5 Alan said:

No it's a stock pickup MAF John. I'm going to go with the MAF on this tune. The main reason is driveability/fuel economy and altitude adjustability.

Idk about EFI live, but with HPT the 3 bar upgrade OS locks the barometic pressure reading to a fixed value. So, anytime the barometric pressure changes, the AFR changes. It's gay. The Mustang was this way as well. I had tuned it in Jan/Feb, and when it got warm around March/April, the tune was starting to lean out. The week after it cooled back down and everything went back to normal.

I checked a few logs from J's pickup that we made 2 years ago, and his BARO reading was identical. Did some research, and turns out most custom boost OS's are this way. And for good reason. If we had access to all the altitude/baro correction tables in the tune, it would be massive.

Leaving the MAF in place, and simply tuning on the last row of the VE table and MAF table will work fine with boost, but you have to have seperate tunes for different boost levels. AND for safety sake, you need some sort of boost limiting cutout, which the TurboSmart Eboost2 i'm using does. So if the WG creeps or has issues and the controller can't keep it down, it will cut power to the injectors at the predetermined boost level.

Also, keeping the MAF functional keeps the computer from going into limp mode which has other side effects. With me using a crossover pipe and log system, I don't think I can use the driver side O2 sensor for closed loop fuel control because of the RH bank mixing with it. I'm failry certain it's going to cause a fuel trim issue. The GEN III ecu's have the ability to fuel both banks off of 1 sensor alone, BUT it will only do it if the system is in closed loop, MAF enabled. If you have the MAF removed or disabled it won't fuel off of just 1 sensor and stays in open loop. So, keeping the MAF allows me to keep the RH O2 sensor installed and in closed loop fuel control, and allows the computer to operate 100% normally.

The drawbacks tho can be disasterous. If the boost creeps up at all the AFR will continue to lean out once the MAF is pegged, which happens around 550ish flywheel HP give or take by my experiences. This is fine tho as long as you have some sort of boost cut.

This way the car will maintain stock fuel control, with on-the-fly altitude corrections. Stock 4.8 on PT.net was into the 9's with this setup, so it can make HP you just gotta be careful doing it. My pillar gauges will consist of WB AFR, Fuel Pressure and boost.

And if I decide it's not going to work out like I want it, I can always delete it and go SD 3bar. I figured i'd give it a try after experimenting with the existing vehicles we have.

That's a great detailed answer! Lol, it does make perfect sense.

[Alan]

Some trinkets I picked up for the pile!

Rear window sticker, should look good against the dark tint I plan on doing:



The only visible thing on the car that says boost:



And I thought about putting the GTO 6.0L emblems on the front fenders, but still on the fence there.

[Jake]

That's going to make it a little confusing for the guy beside you at the stop light. Even more sowhen it lays rubber for 2 city blocks lol.

[John]

Aug 27, 2012 21:08:11 GMT -5 Alan said:

No it's a stock pickup MAF John. I'm going to go with the MAF on this tune. The main reason is driveability/fuel economy and altitude adjustability.

Idk about EFI live, but with HPT the 3 bar upgrade OS locks the barometic pressure reading to a fixed value. So, anytime the barometric pressure changes, the AFR changes. It's gay. The Mustang was this way as well. I had tuned it in Jan/Feb, and when it got warm around March/April, the tune was starting to lean out. The week after it cooled back down and everything went back to normal.

I checked a few logs from J's pickup that we made 2 years ago, and his BARO reading was identical. Did some research, and turns out most custom boost OS's are this way. And for good reason. If we had access to all the altitude/baro correction tables in the tune, it would be massive.

Leaving the MAF in place, and simply tuning on the last row of the VE table and MAF table will work fine with boost, but you have to have seperate tunes for different boost levels. AND for safety sake, you need some sort of boost limiting cutout, which the TurboSmart Eboost2 i'm using does. So if the WG creeps or has issues and the controller can't keep it down, it will cut power to the injectors at the predetermined boost level.

Also, keeping the MAF functional keeps the computer from going into limp mode which has other side effects. With me using a crossover pipe and log system, I don't think I can use the driver side O2 sensor for closed loop fuel control because of the RH bank mixing with it. I'm failry certain it's going to cause a fuel trim issue. The GEN III ecu's have the ability to fuel both banks off of 1 sensor alone, BUT it will only do it if the system is in closed loop, MAF enabled. If you have the MAF removed or disabled it won't fuel off of just 1 sensor and stays in open loop. So, keeping the MAF allows me to keep the RH O2 sensor installed and in closed loop fuel control, and allows the computer to operate 100% normally.

The drawbacks tho can be disasterous. If the boost creeps up at all the AFR will continue to lean out once the MAF is pegged, which happens around 550ish flywheel HP give or take by my experiences. This is fine tho as long as you have some sort of boost cut.

This way the car will maintain stock fuel control, with on-the-fly altitude corrections. Stock 4.8 on PT.net was into the 9's with this setup, so it can make HP you just gotta be careful doing it. My pillar gauges will consist of WB AFR, Fuel Pressure and boost.

And if I decide it's not going to work out like I want it, I can always delete it and go SD 3bar. I figured i'd give it a try after experimenting with the existing vehicles we have.

These are the instructions for setting the Baro settings for the custom OS:

[Alan]

I think its time for me to think about getting EFI live. With our custom OS we have no access to that. Retarded!

Hp and EFI are starting to grow so far apart now it's stupid. Hp has been promising an overhaul for literally the better part of a DECADE now with no change other than Beta versions which have new features, but still nothing we can use like that really.

So, the alternative is to do cheezy workarounds like mentioned in my last post, or get the ability to change the software accordingly.

It probably won't be long and i'll bite the bullet and get EFI. It's got a lot more features to play with, and I like some of them.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using proboards

[David]

Great something new to learn.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using proboards

[Alan]

Heck ya, gotta keep it exciting! I hope you've almost got your defensive driving training complete, i've almost got your Police Cruiser ready!

Man how nice it was to finally have 3 days solid to work on the pile! I got a LOT accomplished!







Still need to install the turbo blanket and master cylinder shield:





Got a shopping list for this next week. However we should have the driveshaft for J's pickup by mid week, so we'll be tuning his pickup for the 4L80E install this next weekend. So in two weeks I should be pretty hot and heavy on the Vic again. I'm getting close. It's almost down to wiring pretty much. Got 99% of the plumbing done today. The stock lower radiator hose worked perfectly with a little trimming! The car also still uses the stock surge tank/radiator so that was all easy as well. Also had a stock electric fan behind the factory clutch fan I was able to reuse.

It's scary how much it looks like it's supposed to be there!